Monday 22 May
Tuesday 23 May
Wednesday 24 May
Thursday 25 May
Friday 26 May
Saturday 27 May
Sunday 28 May
Karger Plassen to Haarlem
Haarlem
Haarlem to Amsterdam Sixhaven
Amsterdam Sixhaven to Monnickendam
Monnickendam to Edam Inner Harbour
Edam Inner Harbour
Edam Inner Harbour
returns to top of this page
We stopped at Kaag for a pump-out, which in most marinas is provided by an automatic machine. After some time spent with the dictionary we were fairly sure how to operate the beast, but nowhere did it say what value coin to insert. We traipsed round to the harbour master’s office to be told that it was one €1 coin. A bargain compared to £6.00 or more on the Thames. Back at the pump-out machine none of the €1 coins we had, could get the machine started. Back to the harbour master’s office (a 10 minute round trip each time). He followed Mike back to the machine on his bike somewhat sceptically, opened the machine up and got it going, and we started pumping. After €1’s worth the level had only gone down a bit, €2s a bit more, €3 and the gauge showed half empty or half full depending on how desperate you are! We gave up when the harbour master says that €3 should be enough to extract 900 litres! Our tank just isn’t that big (we wish it was – it would last a month!). His pump seemed very slow and labouring, so we think it was him not us. We will try elsewhere later.
By now the normal grey clouds had gathered and for the rest of the day it would alternate between dull, showers and bright warm sunshine – not bad really, apart from the very strong winds that are always present. It was very difficult to keep the boat under control while waiting for bridges to open, and we had to resort to making circles in the canal – and when we tired of them, figures of eight! After a while two other boats joined behind us.
Salvation came in the form of two huge barges (relative to the size of the canal/river). While the three of us leisure boaters danced in the wind waiting at a bridge, these two barges came in sight behind us. Low and behold the bridge started to open. After we passed through we made a tactical decision to let the barges overtake. The other leisure boaters did the same. Now we had two big guys to lead us through the remaining bridges and it worked a charm. At each bridge, just as we got near the bridge would open; if there were any wait, it was tolerably short.
Through the centre of Haarlem, the winding river Spaarne is quite narrow. Enough to require a one way convoy system to operate in places. The big barges really struggle to make the tight turns required at the bends and to squeeze through all the bridges. Their skippers’ skill is impressive.
There was one hairy moment. At one big road bridge, after the barges had passed through, the lights went red and the bridge started to come down. We think that the bridge operator presumed we would fit under without it being lifted. This was in fact true, but only just true, with the VHF aerial down, not up as it was. After a moment's hesitation we applied full throttle and powered through, turning round to see the bridge slam closed with the boat behind us still coming through with about a foot to spare in headroom.
We soon found a good mooring in the centre of town, with electricity, though the shower is a little brick building by a bridge that rather resembles a low-grade public loo in external appearance. Do we fork out the €0.80 to see what it looks like inside?
Haarlem itself is very charming. We have found some lovely back streets, little squares, and shops, as well as masses of cafes and restaurants. Tomorrow is for further exploration of Haarlem.
Following two barges through the twists and turns of Haarlem's Spaarne
Our mooring on the Spaarne
Passing traffic
Haarlem back street
This morning's first task was to give the engine a 100 hour service, which involves getting all the flooring up to give access to the engine compartment. The dirty oil is pumped out by means of a small brass hand pump permanently plumbed to the engine sump. The oil filter was changed and fresh oil added. Now we need to find a marina that will accept the old engine oil.
The primary fuel filter was also changed. This is a new Racor filter with a combined water separator which we had fitted during the winter. It's really easy to change the filter and no bleeding of the fuel system is required. I had asked the chap who did it to fit a tap to the bowl, so it would be easier to drain off any water or sediment compared to unscrewing the provided bung. He did this but, as we have just discovered, fitted the tap upside down. It can't be opened because the tap handle fouls the underside of the bowl. Luckily the fuel in the bowl looks OK. It's too big a job to contemplate at the moment to rectify the problem here. We will have to get this done "under warranty" when we get back - but Mike is not a happy bunny over this. Should have tested it earlier I suppose.
When the chores were done we went to the Frans Hals Museum. It is situated in some old almshouses. There was a really good introduction to the history of Haarlem which was fascinating. Starry Night's resident art critic (Maureen) said that Frans Hals was amazing and his brushwork in particular was extraordinary - free and modern looking. The faces in the portraits seemed to come alive. We spent two hours all told in the museum, and it was really enjoyable. After that it was pancakes for lunch in the Butter Market Square.
Mike wandered back to the boat, leaving Maureen to do some free form unimpeded shopping! Dangerous stuff!
Later, while Mike was on the phone again, a leisure boat appeared alongside and sounded its horn which got stuck "on" for quite a while, making it very difficult to hear the phone. We thought he was signaling the bridge to open. He was in fact signaling us, asking us to move our boat up a little to make room for him. Luckily Maureen was back by this time and we shunted Starry Night along the pontoon. This was quite an involved task as we had masses of lines applied, to combat the severe wind from last night. As we found out later, the skipper had to cut the wires to the horn, to shut it up.
This evening we are going to a free organ recital in the Grote Kerk. According to the Rough Guide it has one of the biggest organs in the world, with over 5000 pipes and "loads of snazzy Baroque embellishments".
We are under clear blue skies again this afternoon - but another gale is supposedly on the way.
Tomorrow we are heading to the Markermeer and will pass through Amsterdam to get there.
100 hour service - changing the engine oil
Just round the corner from our mooring
Part of the bike pile at Haarlem station
The 8:05 Netherlands Coastguard VHF weather forecast said force 7 for the Markermeer this afternoon so we decided to go only as far as Amsterdam, and do the rest of the trip tomorrow.
We nosed out of our Haarlem mooring as soon as we heard the bells for the bridge barriers, and got ourselves into position to pass through as soon as the bridge was swung. This was the first opening after the rush hour. Thankfully we were able to pass under the next two bridges with the mast folded down. Next we stopped at the harbour master's office and settled our dues which included a fee of about €5 for passing through Haarlem. We also purchased a pump-out token to finish off the job started at Kaag. This time it cost €3.50 for three minutes on a very similar machine to last time.
With everything ready, the token was inserted and the pump could be heard running, but nothing very much else happened. It timed-out its three minutes and that was that. Mike went back to the harbour master's office and was told (by a different person) that the machine was broken. The €3.50 was refunded. We pressed on through the lock at Spaarndam where we were reminded to pay our dues of €3.50 to the lock office by another boat skipper. There was nothing to say you had to pay, though it does mention it in the Wateralmanak - we just hadn't translated that bit!
After the lock it was on to a marina listed in the Almanak where you can buy diesel and where there was another pump-out machine. When we got there, we moored up at the visitor mooring and Mike went round to the office. No, the pump-out machine "is kaput" and no, they don't take credit cards, even for diesel. Since we didn't have a spare €150 cash for a fill up, we said thanks, but no thanks. This was the fourth pump-out machine we have come across which is defective - we rather wonder what the locals do as pump-outs seem to be few and far between to start with.
We turned East into the Noordzeekanal which is quite enormous. The cruise ship pictured below obviously fits through the locks at IJmuiden. Up to now we had endured showers and short sharp bursts of hail. Here the rain settled in, and we retired permanently to the inside helm. There were plenty of large ships and a number of big docks off to the sides. Barges and tugs would periodically emerge on the principle of might is right. In the meantime we had sussed a fuel barge (bunkerschip) just up Zij-kanaal G and turned off to pay them a visit. Again, no foreign credit cards accepted - we tried our chip and pin Mastercard in their machine but it was not recognised. This is beginning to be annoying as the same thing has happened in several (but not all) shops. So much for an international chip and pin card! Anyway we purchased €70 worth of diesel which was all the cash we could spare.
We headed on into Amsterdam, passed the Central Station with all its associated ferry traffic, and turned left into Sixhaven marina - it was wet and very windy, and we were fed up! The harbour master efficiently directed us to a convenient mooring and helped us to tie up - the wind was ferocious and certainly not assisting the process.
After we settled in we decided to go into Amsterdam and revisit old haunts - this is one of our favourite cities and we know it quite well. We took the free ferry across to the station and then walked up to the Dam Square and round the back to Singel Gracht where we stopped off for an appelgebak and coffee. Then to the flower market and a tram back to the station. The heavens opened and we ran for cover in the station before heading for the ferry with the evening commuters. On the way back to the boat we got soaked by torrential driving rain and had to resort to putting on the boat heating when we got back! The first time this trip.
Amsterdam Central Station - an unmissable landmark for finding our marina
Maureen and the Singel Canal - what? no rain?
We ogled them and they ogled us!
We woke up to a grey sky and a fine drizzle but were in no hurry to set off for Monnickendam. After breakfast we slowly got ready so we could pounce when the weather seemed to improve. At last around 10.00 the sky brightened and the rain stopped, so we set off.
It was less than a mile to the Oranjesluizen (lock) complex where we would gain access to the Markermeer. The are two reasonably large locks used for leisure craft. Because today is Ascension Day it is a public holiday here and both locks were working to capacity, despite the weather. Dutch sailors are clearly made of stern stuff. It was mostly sailing boats with a few motor cruisers like us thrown in for good luck! As we approached we could see that one lock was open with a green light. There were more than ten boats in our little armada and everyone was on full throttle to the last minute trying for the open lock! Of course there wasn't enough room for everyone in that lock, and the next one opened. There was a loud announcement over the tannoy, of which we understood not one syllable, and the lights to the first lock changed to red. We guessed the idea was "were full here!" We made a severe course alteration and headed for the second lock along with everyone behind us, most of whom were now in front of us!
The actual locking process was so serene it was hard to tell if we were going up or down. As the gates opened we could see dozens of yachts bobbing around waiting for a bridge opening. We followed another motor cruised and weaved our way through the crowd and under the bridge - no clearance problems for us. It was another ten minutes before the bridge opened!
At this point it started to rain and did so on and off for the next two hours. As we got further out into the Markermeer, the water became a bit more agitated though never unpleasant. We set a North Easterly course for the light house on Marken island and then turned round the headland and aimed for the entrance to the Gouwzee on which Volendam, Marken itself and Monnickendam are situated. The last part of the trip was up buoyed channels into the Monnickendam harbour area where there are several marinas, as well as the municipal harbour. We opted for the Waterland Jachthaven which seemed to have everything we wanted, and is convenient for town.
Most of the berths here are "boxes" with no finger pontoons. With a dinghy on the back we can't use the steps on the transom to disembark. And the bow is quite high with no gap in the hand rails for a dignified exit. We asked if there were any alongside moorings and were offered a place on the outside of one of the main pontoons just off the fairway into the municipal harbour. This has proved to be a perfect spot for watching the world go by. Our receipt for marina dues has come up with a new spelling of our name to add to the collection - Hawkredje!
The afternoon turned pleasant but still a bit dull and eventually the sun emerged and we have blue skies. But there is still a very chilly breeze.
We went for a walk round the village of Monnickendam and it is a very quiet, charming and historic place of character. We decided that the Rough Guide had done it down unfairly. And it looks as if it would be a lovely place to live too.
On a final note, this is the first day we haven't seen another red ensign on our travels. And several times over the last few days we have been asked if we had Starry Night brought over by lorry.
Marken light house
Our mooring at Monnickendam
Monnickendam harbour
Monnickendam back doubles
We managed to make a hasty foraging expedition into Monnickendam for today's menu, before the rain started. Close to the harbour are a grocery store, butcher, baker and green grocer. Once back at the boat Mike phoned the harbour master at Edam to make sure that there would be room for us.
We then set off for the seven mile trip to Edam. Most of the passage was in sheltered waters, but in any case the promised force four wind hadn't yet materialised. It rained all the way and we did the whole trip from inside. We saw a number of traditional sailing barges with their day trip crews, poor souls, getting well and truly soaked in the rain. It made us feel much better!
The entrance to the small canal that runs into Edam was easy to spot, despite the poor visibility. It is very narrow and we had to wait for another sailing boat to emerge before we could pass in. We then motored slowly up to the lock, which was opened almost immediately by the lock keeper. We were locked through for €1 and again did not detect any level change. The canal continued on to the basin and double draw-bridge giving access to the town harbour. We phoned the HM again to let him know we were waiting to come in and he said he would be about 20 minutes which would take us to 12:30 - the next scheduled opening of the bridge. The harbour master has to work the seven bridges between here and the Purmerringvaart. He zips around on his bicycle according to the needs of the boat traffic. When we phoned he was on the other side of town doing bridge duty.
12:30 came and went. At 12:45 a foreign flagged yacht (not dutch) showed up and circled round the basin, the skipper peering at the timetable of bridge openings, the next one listed being 15:00. Mike went up on deck in the rain to tell him that the HM was coming. He had been about to give up and go back. He then moored up almost half under the bridge - this should have warned us of what was to come!
As soon as the harbour master opened the bridge, the foreign yacht was in and we had to follow. There was one large space left next to the power points which he nabbed, and a smaller space somewhat further away that looked too small for us. And the harbour master was nowhere to be seen.
We pulled into a temporary spot and bided our time. When the HM pitched up he was chaperoning a boat through the bridges, and said he would make room for us later, if our cable was too short to reach the power from the smaller place. Mike had already paced out the gap and reckoned we would just fit in with a foot each end to spare. We shifted Starry Night down to this new spot and tried our two cables end to end - a good 30m - and annoyingly we were less than 2m short. It was impossible to make it stretch!
It hasn't really stopped raining all day and we haven't been into Edam yet to look round. Maybe this evening. We plan to stay here until Monday, and the HM has promised to sort us out tomorrow so we can have power.
This one is Maureen's!
Our view of the world today.
Are they wetter than us? Probably!
The foreign boat left at 10:00 and we took the position by the much coveted power sockets. Its odd that there are eight sockets all on one post and these are the only ones. Another long power lead is on the list to bring next time!
We walked to Edam bus station and caught the 114 express bus into Amsterdam. The journey took just over twenty minutes - very clean, smooth and on time. As soon as we arrived we went to the VVV office and bought our tickets for the Rembrandt-Caravaggio exhibition which is on at the Van Gogh museum. There are events all over town to celebrate Rembrandt's 400th anniversary. This involved a queue of about ten minutes which seemed a lot at the time. When we arrived at the museum area we were staggered by the length of the queues actually at each museum.
Someone told us that the estimated queuing time to get into the VG museum to see the Rembrandt-Caravaggio exhibition was three hours! Luckily, with our VVV purchased tickets we bypassed all that and walked straight in. Phew!
The exhibition was really good. They displayed similar subjects together so that the styles could be compared. The Rembrandts were more painterly and more like real people, the Caravaggios were more photographic but looked like posed models with all the blemishes removed. We also quickly looked at the permanent Van Gogh exhibition which we have seen before.
After wending our way through some of the back streets we found ourselves in De Bijenkorfs department store when it started to rain. Here we got a call from Jim and Sara saying that they had arrived at the airport. So we headed on down to the Station to meet them and a few minutes later their train came in.
We all went to Liedse Plein for a drink and a stroll via the flower market to a Indonesian restaurant we know, for a Rijstafel. Then it was back to the boat by bus and a nice cup of tea!
They did it for art !
After a leisurely start to the day we went for a wander round Edam's pretty streets. The sun even peaked out from behind white fluffy clouds and out of the chilly wind it felt reasonably warm.
We watched the harbour master operate the bridge next to where we are moored. It's all done manually with the aid off a long pole with a hook on one end, chains, and a lot of brute force. When closing the bridge, the HM has to run up the bridge while it is still at an angle of 45 degrees, to get it to come down.
In the afternoon we went back to the Grote Kerk to look at the interior which included a rather nice ornate organ and some more interesting stained glass windows. The church truly is large and the interior has been given over to various community activities besides worship. There was a library in one corner, and in the middle there was an area being used for an art exhibition.
Walking back to the boat we were attracted to a large tree by a canal because of the loud squawking coming from high up in the branches. This tree was home to four pairs of heron and their chicks. The chicks were enormous and every time a parent returned with food there was a lot of commotion and serious fighting between them. Herons over here seem to be more content to live in close contact with people, compared to their British cousins.
Later on, Jim and Mike took the dinghy out to explore the canal the other side of the bridge next to where we are moored. This entailed getting under some seriously low bridges. The lowest gave just a couple of inches clearance over the top of the outboard engine, and we had to cower in the bottom of the dinghy to get under. Eventually we came out the other side of town and into the country where the canal was lined with reed banks. It was a lot more windy here so we turned round and headed back to the shelter of the town centre.
We have arranged with the HM to go out of Edam on the 10:30 bridge opening tomorrow, and will head South to Marken.
We're moored just beyond this bridge
Jim and Sara
Duck!!
Copyright © 2006-2009 Mike Hawkridge