Monday 26 June
Tuesday 27 June
Wednesday 28 June
Thursday 29 June
Friday 30 June
Saturday 1 July
Sunday 2 July
Monday 3 July
Ramsgate
Ramsgate to Chatham
Chatham to Hampton Court
Hampton Court to Laleham
Laleham to Cliveden
Cliveden to Medmenham sheep field
Medmenham to Goring on Thames
Goring on Thames to Abingdon
returns to top of this page
The strong winds from the North have kept most boats in harbour today. Just a few brave souls have ventured out. We watched one small sailing boat being tossed about in the waves outside the harbour and were glad we had decided to go nowhere today. The forecast for tomorrow looks promising so we will head round to Chatham.
Apart from venturing into town for supplies, we have spent the day relaxing.
The wash from these guys keeps us bobbing up and down gently in the harbour!
The sea was smooth to slight but with a pronounced swell caused by the recent strong winds, which caused us to roll around quite uncomfortably on the way up to North Foreland. Once "round the corner" and in the shelter of the Margate sand banks the swell disappeared and it was smooth cruising all the way to Chatham.
It was on this stretch that Maureen spotted a small flock of unusually large sea birds which, when we got closer, turned out to be gannets. On the way over from Nieuwpoort we had spotted some fulmars and also some cory's shearwaters (we think). Recently, we have been making stronger efforts to identify birds we had previously just dismissed as "gulls" without looking closer. A short while later, on Margate Hook sandbank, we saw a herd (or alternatively, thanks to my consultant editor, pod) of seals sunbathing. We got quite close to them; they peered at us as we went by, and we peered at them.
The approaches to the Medway and Thames were very busy. There was more shipping here than we saw on either crossing of the Channel. At one point there were twelve large ships within a few miles of us.
We were in Chatham Marina and berthed in our allotted place by 13.45. Some more rest before the final push tomorrow!
We can't get over the price for mooring berths in UK marinas, after the Netherlands. Here at Chatham it is costing us £29.80 just for one night! At Breskens, one of the more expensive in the Netherlands, we paid just under €20 for one night, and with more facilities on hand. On the other hand diesel is still much cheaper here but for how long?
Just "round the corner" of North Foreland
Only practice, hopefully
The Medway estuary, Sheerness to left
By 08.30 Sheerness had come and gone, and we were rounding the sand flats into the Thames estuary. There was plenty of big shipping heading in and out, and it was essential to keep a listening watch on the relevant London VTS channel to get an idea of what to expect. And the first unexpected news was that the Thames barrier was closed (no reason given) with an opening time we couldn't hear properly. We skipped a heart beat or two and then had to wait another hour for the repeat message to find out that it would re-open at 11.25 - which thankfully it did.
We progressed up the Thames, passing Gravesend about 11.00 and were in the centre of London by 14.00. We really love this bit of the river with all the bridges and famous landmarks - and it wasn't too rough this time either. On up the river to Richmond where there is a half-tide lock. We arrived some time before they could open the sluices to operate free flow, and the signs (partly broken) were directing traffic to the lock. There was absolutely no one about and they didn't answer the phone either. So we had to hover while we decided what to do next. Then without any warning the sluices started to open and we were able to pass through. The signs were still saying to go through the lock and we never did see anyone!
Teddington was next, and then we were onto the non-tidal river and feeling very much at home. The radio was now off, auto-pilot put to bed, and it was back to gently pottering along what for us still ranks as one of the prettiest and most interesting rivers we know.
Dartness fort on the Medway
Rubbish recovered from the Thames, waiting for a boat jumble?
Where's this, and its not in Holland? for answer see bottom left
The dinghy got a birthday this afternoon with a scrub clean, and looks much better for it. And that is about that!
Click here to test your dutch on some posters and signs we have seen.
A coot with accoutrements! (and an egg)
Laleham
Another glorious day, hotter than yesterday. It's been a lot more busy on the river today with a queue at Bray lock (as normal?). We craftily waited under the M4 motorway bridge for some shade and cool air.
By the time we reached Cliveden, the good moorings on the islands were taken but we found a shady place not far from the cottages, just above the islands.
The GPS log for today shows that we have done 1063 nautical miles since we left Abingdon; with the 47 left to go that will make 1110 nm for the trip. We filled up with diesel at Shepperton on the way out and back and between fill ups we used 740 litres at a cost of just over £600. There is probably another 80 litres for the round trip Abingdon to Shepperton to take into account on top of that. The engine has run for 210 hours on the trip so far. Its interesting to note that if we had been going to the South of France, which is not an unusual cruising destination, our stats would have just got us to the Med!
Tomorrow we have to do battle with Henley regatta - wish us luck!
Our shady spot on Cliveden reach
We got off to a flying start, and were through Cookham lock by 09.15. The day was already quite warm and there were plenty of boats about taking advantage of the early part of the day.
At Marlow lock we encountered a hefty queue, extending beyond the lock cut into the river. It took ages to get through but we did manage an ice cream during the wait on the staging (first one of the trip, amazingly). The lock keeper here was doing a tremendous job of packing the boats in, and was very attentive to what was going on. There were quite a few boats that seemed to be heading for Henley to parade up and down the mile - some of them crewed by people who obviously didn't take their boat out very often.
At Temple lock the queue was less. The excitement here was a brand new Stevens Vlet getting hung up on its ropes (or more accurately pulled down) when one of her crew members helpfully tied the shore line on to the lockside bollard. Water had to be let out of the lock to take enough tension out of the ropes to undo it.
By the time we had cleared Hurley lock it had taken over four hours to do just three locks and about seven miles! The crowds flocking to Henley did not bode well for a quick passage to the other side and it was already lunch time, so we decided that enough was enough; we would moor up at the fields just above Medmenham Abbey, and that's what we did!
We have been watching the boats heading into Henley for the day time "fun", and more lately presumably for the fireworks. As one observer commented, it's a bit like an accident waiting to happen, with masses of small boats and dinghies overloaded with people mixed in with the big plastic gin palaces plus boats full of blokes and beer, and the odd yellow submarine (see pic).
The chap who collected our mooring fee advised to ensure that the mooring pegs were well in because the boats coming back from the fireworks don't hang around - apparently the lock keeper at Hambledon is on duty until midnight! Where the boats are going to I can't imagine, unless Hurley is open too, and that only gives access to Harleyford marina. We are preparing to repel borders.
Our plan is for an early start tomorrow to make up for lost time, and to be through Henley before 10.00. We will see.
This "boat" appeared several times. It was publishing a political cause.
This was before the result.
Despite the repeated interruptions to sleep, we were off to another rapid start along with many others also trying to get a jump on the day, and some cooler cruising. Just after 9.00 we were into Hambledon lock and we were not the first lock load of the morning. It was very busy with queues forming on both sides. The Henley mile was quite quiet as things hadn't started yet, but there were a lot of people milling about, and rowing crews practicing. We crept down the navigation channel which was very restricted in places marveling at the fees charged for mooring for just one night - £50!! We had cleared Henley altogether by 10.30.
We queued at every lock except Mapledurham, all the way to Goring, though the wait in the shade at some locks was a glorious relief from the scorching sun. We got here at 16.00 to find the 24 hour moorings only lightly patronised as people headed for home at the end of the weekend.
This evening we had our last meal out of the trip. The Miller of Mansfield has been "done" into a gastro pub with a substantial elevation in prices but with a very strange decor that didn't appeal, so we headed for the Catherine Wheel which did not disappoint us.
The famous Henley rowing course
The course on the LHS and what is left for us on the right!
The finish!
We were reminded at every turn of the river why we love the Thames so much, and particularly this stretch. After doing battle with the fierce lock sluices at Culham (nothing like them in Holland!) we were back at Abingdon. Three hours to unload the boat and tidy up in the sweltering heat and we were on our way home in the luxury of air-conditioning - bliss!
It has been a fantastic trip, and every day there has been something to enjoy and savour. But it is so nice to be back on familiar territory and the tranquility of the rural Thames on a weekday has to be experienced - it is hard to put into words.
This is the last diary entry for this trip. A route map will be added in due course (after the garden weeding program has been executed!), plus one or two other goodies about the Netherlands - watch this space. For trip statistics see diary entry for 30 June.
Thanks for reading my blatherings over the last two months.
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Updated 26 February 2009
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