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Musings on the Norfolk Broads - Autumn 2008
It is now four months since we arrived at our mooring in Brundall. We could not have been made more welcome at our marina and we are very happy with the choice we have made.
The atmosphere in the locality is very boaty - there are masses of boat yards, marinas large and small, odd moorings tucked away here and there, and of course the Broom factory.
Because Starry Night is now nearly four hours from home by car, we have had to change our habits slightly. So now, instead of lots of day trips over the winter to do boat jobs, we did our winter jobs in August - things like repairs and modifications, varnishing and paintwork. This is when we upgraded the alternator. In between jobs we made trips to the coast and did a bit of general site seeing using Starry Night as a base. This just leaves winterisation and a full engine service to be done on our last visit of the year.
In September we bought a two week license for the Broads (we don't intend to buy a full year's license until next March as Starry Night is kept in private water). We were able to obtain this from the nearby Broom office. Every time we have purchased one of the licenses over the years we have been warned not to stick them to our boat using the self adhesive backing provided, which apparently is impossible to get off. You would think that something less sticky would be used by now, as "everyone" (except the Broads Authority?) knows!
With official permission to be out and about we headed down river to Berney Arms, on the way passing through the Reedham Swing Bridge, which was already open. We had a very pleasant meal at the Berney Arms - much better than last year. And the beer here is first class too! Then we headed on to the Northern rivers deciding to pass through Great Yarmouth at low water rather than slack water, which gave us much more clearance under the low bridges.
We were surprised at how busy it was but we have been told that it was the first week of the reduced rate season for hire boats so there was another flood of punters out and about. Must bear this in mind for next year; a Hoseason's hire boat brochure might be a useful planning resource.
The Broads Authority have been busy extending moorings here and there - on an impressive scale for someone more used to the EA's activity on the Thames. Lets hope they keep this up. We visited our normal haunts though decided not to go up the river Ant in case the forecast rain resulted in a stranding the wrong side of Ludham Bridge. We were not disappointed and managed to moor up everywhere we wanted to.
The passage back through Great Yarmouth was rather more exciting at low water than slack water as the current is still very strong. Though skipper stress is reduced because the bridge clearances are comfortable, stress levels are then raised due to the tidal stream robbing the skipper of some of his steering control!
The passage up Breydon Water was brilliant, with so many different wading birds - it never disappoints.
Our first encounter with a closed swing bridge was at Somerleyton. After six weeks in the Netherlands we were spoiled by the slick operating systems and communications between boaters, bridge operators and railways. By comparison the arrangements for the two bridges on the Broads are medieval!
Communications using VHF usually work OK and the staff operating the bridges are very helpful. However there are plenty of boats without VHF, and people we have spoken to are scathing about the present situation. It wouldn't be difficult for Network Rail to equip the two bridges with some modern traffic lights and dot matrix displays, and it would make a huge difference. Just knowing that the bridge operator has seen you would be a big bonus!
Our main quibble over bridges is the water level gauges. Why are they so dirty and impossible to read at the low water mark where, for a boat with a marginal clearance like ours, it is most important to know the headroom? How much can it cost to give these gauges a good scrub at low water every now and then, and who is responsible for keeping them clean?
We have found that it is essential to arrive at these bridges at the optimum time relative to the trains, which have priority. Just after a train has passed is much better than ten minutes before it is due - if you want to avoid a long wait! So we have on board the relevant train timetables for the local area so we can be sure to get the arrival timing right.
We spent a very pleasant few days revisiting Beccles, Oulton Broad and points in between there and Brundall, discovering some new delights up small backwaters and dykes to add to our repertoire.
The only low point was when we got hit by another boat while moored up at Worlingham Staithe. The skipper of the little day boat tried to get alongside the staithe without turning to face the stream, and was swept onto our transom. He then powered off, and scraped paint off the corner of the transom, down to the primer. Luckily, Dave at our marina is a dab hand at fixing things like this and did a superb repair while we were back home in between visits.
We have made another outing in late October just swanning around on the Yare and the Waveney, trying to find quiet spots to moor at. Even in October it can be difficult to find somewhere free of the sound of an engine running to power up the television! But we did succeed in finding solitude, however the locations remain secret!
We were surprised at the height of the tides during our stay, overwhelming some of the moorings at Reedham, making Herringfleet unusable at high water and over-topping various pub facilities.
And finally, we have seen Cantley sugar refinery in operation!
Starry Night is now fully serviced and laid up for the winter, in the tender care of Dave and Dave!
Starry Night on her mooring at Brundall
Moored at Berney Arms
Engine running - and desperately searching for a signal in time for Home and Away?
Sunset at Somerleyton - Norfolk skies are so big!
Somerleyton swing bridge in the tranquility of an early morning mist
Starry Night moored at Beccles Yacht Station
The dreaded Top Gem 1 at normal full throttle - see last year's diary!
Cantley sugar refinery doing its thing
Copyright © 2008-2009 Mike Hawkridge